Permits are Required For:
Building, electrical, mechanical and plumbing permits are all required for new residential construction.
- Changing, moving or repairing walls, floors, ceilings etc. requires a Building Permit
- Changing, moving or repairing electrical requires an Electrical Permit.
- Changing, moving or repairing mechanical requires a Mechanical Permit.
- Changing, moving or repairing plumbing requires a Plumbing permit
Types of Permits:
- Accessory Buildings (non-habitable and does not include carports, detached garages)
- Addition (increase in living area... bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room, etc.)
- Garage or Garage Conversion
Additions / Remodels:
Structural changes such as cutting away any wall or portion thereof, removal or cutting of any structural beam or load-bearing support, removal or change of any required means of egress (doors or windows) requires a permit.
Painting, papering, tiling, carpeting, cabinets and countertops or similar finish work does not require a permit.
A homeowner is allowed to do any work on their home; provided, they live in it and it is homesteaded.
A site plan showing site plan of the property indicating all existing and proposed structures and improvements on the is required before a permit can be issued. Our office will attempt to expedite plan review in a timely manner; however, review time is dependent upon work volume and varies accordingly. Most plan review can be completed in 2-3 days.
All permit applications must be made in person.
- Addition must comply with the light, ventilation and heating requirements.
- At least one emergency escape and rescue opening is required.
- Smoke alarms are required in/outside each sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedroom. New smoke alarms shall be interconnected with existing smoke alarms and primary power shall come from the building wiring with battery backup.
- Natural light and ventilation requirements for existing rooms cannot be reduced below minimum code requirements.
- Existing required bedroom emergency escape and rescue windows must be maintained or replaced.
- Room additions with open spans in excess of 24 feet require sealed plans.
Carports in Front Yard Setbacks:
No private carport shall be permitted within the minimum required front yard, platted front yard, or projected front yard of residential dwellings except by variance granted by the Board of Adjustments.
In reviewing a request for a private carport within the minimum required front yard, platted front yard, or projected front yard, the Board of Adjustments shall consider the following:
1. Presence and/or absence of a garage on the residential lot, parcel or tract
2. The viability of access to the side and rear yard
3. The size, height, and design of the carport and its impact on adjacent properties4. The incidence of other carports on the block.
A permit is required for the construction of a carport.
Setback requirements are enforced.
A carport on the front of the house typically requires a variance.
An application/variance request, pictures and all other documentaton along with $150.00 fee should be submitted to the City Secretary at City Hall to be considered on the next month's agenda.
A homeowner can do any work on their property, providing it is homesteaded.
Carports built in the backyard do not require approval from the Planning & Zoning Commission but a permit must still be obtain prior to construction.
IF YOU ARE UNSURE WHETHER THE WORK YOU ARE GOING TO DO REQUIRES A PERMIT, PLEASE CONTACT BUILDING INSPECTOR AT 432-523-4820.
Maximum fence height is seven (7') feet in backyard and side yard up to the front face of the house. A permit is not required; however, certain requirements must be met to construct the fence in a sound manner.
- Maximum height of three (3) feet of solid fencing is allowed in the front yard.
- Maximum height of four (4) feet is allowed; provided, that it is a see-through material (i.e. chain link, etc.)
- On an interior side front yard fence where the conversion from the maximum height (typically 6 foot) to the three (3) or four (4) foot height, it can be sloped, stepped down, curved or a sudden drop, as long as it takes place in the first eight (8) feet from the front face of the house (see fencing diagram).
Fences being built must be placed within their own property boundaries and not on city right-of-way. A survey may be required to determine your property line. See diagram for typical lot layout and right-of-way locations.
Corner properties wanting to replace or install a new fence must contact Code Compliance or the Building inspector for an on-site review.
On interior side property line, the fence must drop at house front to a maximum height of 3 feet at property line.Manufactured Home Move-In:
MOVE-IN PERMIT REQUIRED to move or relocate any building or structure (permanent, temporary or portable)
Prior to moving the manufactured home on site, contact the City to verify zoning and obtain your move-in permit. See application and guidelines for specific requirements.
For homes older than 10 years of age, please submit pictures of the interior and exterior with your site plan when obtaining your permit.
To obtain a move-in permit, a site plan is required showing setbacks, driveway, sidewalks and proposed house location. You will also need to provide sales contract or title showing ownership, year manufactured and size.
In addition to the building permit, plumbing and electrical permits must be obtained for hook-ups.
Homes must be tied down and skirted prior to any utilities being turned on.
Utilities (water, electricity and gas) will not be turned on until inspections have been completed.
New Home Construction:
Builder's Risk Policy and $25,000 Surety Bond is required before a permit can be issued.
Our office will attempt to expedite plan review in a timely manner; however, review time is dependent upon work volume and varies accordingly. Most plan reviews can be completed within one (1) week
A permit is not required to tear off and replace shingles.
NOTE: THE 2011 BUILDING CODE STATES: EXISTING SHINGLES MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE NEW ROOFING IS INSTALLED. (YOU ARE NO LONGER ALLOWED TO PLACE NEW SHINGLES (OR METAL ROOF) ON TOP OF EXISTING YOUR EXISTING ROOF.
A permit is required if changing the framing or the pitch of the roof.
If the work is done by someone other than the homeowner, the contractor must be registered with the City of Andrews.
Storage (Accessory) Buildings:
Examples of accessory buildings include, but are not limited to:
Detached storage sheds
Provide a site plan with building location identified.
- Drawing to include square footage of lot, house, patio cover, etc…located on the site.
- This is required in order to determine lot coverage.
Fee assessed is based on size (square footage).
The following list is by no means a complete list, but rather a general requirements list of things needed prior to any issuance of a permit for construction of an accessory building.
- All permit applications must be made in person
- Accessory buildings are considered an Accessory Use in the Zoning Ordinance.
- Any structural span over 24’ requires plan prepared by a Professional Engineer registered with the State of Texas for the span and its supporting elements only.
- Use of any pre-engineered product, ie: trusses or J-beams, will require a copy of the manufacturer’s handouts.
- The accessory structure cannot be in any easement or right-of-way.
If any of the following questions merit a "YES" response, a PERMIT is REQUIRED.
1. Will the swimming pool hold 24 inches of water depth?
2. Will there be a circulating system used?
3. Is the pool being placed or constructed in the ground?
4. Is the pool larger than 10' x 10' or a 10' diameter.
A site plan is required showing pool location, including dimensions to property lines and other structures.
Along with the site plan, we need two copies of the pool plan showing size, depth, plumbing and electrical work to be completed.
Plumbing and Electrical permits will also be required in addition to the building permit.